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South and South East walls of Zamarla Turnia are the most favourite among sunniest climbing places in the Tatras. The main S wall is of 130 meters high and 100 meters wide. The S-E part of Zamarla is between 130 and 70 meters high. There are altogether 4 routes of IV+ to V- grade, 8 of V to V+, 11 between VI+ and VII+ and 4 routes between VIII- and VIII grade.


Approach:
1. From Dolina Pieciu Stawow Polskich (5 Polish Lakes Valley) take yellow trail to Kozia Przelecz and follow it to the end of Dolinka Pusta Valley. Before the trail turns right you need to go left. Traversing West follow the trail to the foot of Zamarla Turnia. This approach takes 1,50h minutes from the 5 Polish Lakes hut.

2. From Dolina Gasienicowa Valley take yellow trail (2,15-2,30h) through Kozia Przelecz to Dolinka Pusta Valley (scramble along chains, snow stays until mid-summer) and then traversing west get to yellow trail and follow it as in approach 1.

3. Second longer way from Dolina Gasienicowa Valley (2,45-3,15h) leads through Zawrat (less snow in summer) and Przelecz Schodki to the middle of Dolina Pusta Valley. From there go straight up to the foot of the crag.


Descent:
From the summit there are two ways to down climb to red trail (Orla Perc). Following this trail you can go to Kozia Przelecz (section with via ferrate ladder which can get busy during summer season). Alternatively, go in the opposite direction and get to Maly Kozi Wierch. From there you can either follow trail to Zawrat or sticking close to South Ridge go down to Przelecz Schodki.

In winter approaches and descents are similar to those in summer. In winter however it is more frequent and practical for climbers to abseil the North side.


Best routes on Zamarla Turnia:
7   Lewa Pilchowka V+, 1xA0
12 Prawi Wrzesniacy V+
16 Droga Klasyczna V, winter classic
17 Kant Heinricha (Prawy-Right) VII- winter classic
19 Kant Pietscha VII+ winter classic
21 Jargit-Packowski VI+ winter classic
23 Droga Motyki V- winter classic
T   Trawers Zamarlej V winter classic


A complete, double sided english language printout (32'x12') of this topo features:
-all the above information,
-all routes on the mountain with the indication of the best classics and modern hard core routes,
-general information about climbing and skiing in Tatra Mountains,
-a map of Tatras region,
-a map of the Five Lakes Valley,
-lots of good tips.

To purchase this topo send us an email to This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

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