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Hercules' routes Print
Below you will find the ten most difficult Tatras' winter routes on Kazalnica aka Zerwa (pulpit) in Morskie Oko Valley, according to Warsaw Climbing Club newsletter (2004).

Kazalnica.jpg1. Czok-Kielkowski - UIAA VI A3, 4 ascents, best time 39h, last ascent 1992
2. Superparanoja - V+ A2, 1 ascent, best time 17.5h, last ascent 2002
3. Kant Wielkiego Zaciecia - V+ A3, not repeated, last ascent 1978
4. 15.10 do Yumy - V+ A2+, 3 ascents, best time 18h, last ascent 2003
5. Wish You We Here - V+ A3, 2 ascents, best time 20h, last ascent 2003
6. Supersciek - V A2+, several ascents, ice 80-95, best time 13h, last ascent 1992
7. Sciek - VI A2+, 5 ascents, best time 18h, last ascent 1992
8. Wielkie Zaciecie - V+ A2+, 15 ascents, best time 15h, last ascent 1997
9. Heinrich-Chrobak - V A1, many ascents, best time 12h, last ascent 2001
10. Superdirettissima - V+ A2, 6 ascents, last ascent 1989


Summer modern classics
1. Gacopyrz route - on Zerwa (Polish VI.3+ equals French 7a+) goes directly through the big roof (Wielki Okap)
2. Mamiatowka z Prostowaniem - on Zerwa (grade 7a+/7b-), only one trad ascent
3. Filar Kazalnicy przez Wielki Okap - on Zerwa, probably the most technically difficult route on all N walls in High Tatras (7c+), one repeted ascent
4. Superata Mlodosci - on Mnich with the most beautiful open book in Tatras on its 3rd pitch (7a/7b-)
5. Metallica - on Mnich (7b/7b+)
6. Superdirettisima - on Wielkie Zloty Kopiniak on N wall of Maley Kiezmarski extremely difficult and exposed
7. Bonbonova Cesta - a route on W wall of Lomnica, for a long time it was thought to be the hardest route in Slovak part.

Routes still awaitng first trad ascents:
1. Metanoja
2. Stad do wiecznosci
3. Brytyjskie trawersy.

The hardest routes on the Slovak side could be found on Galeria Ganku, Javorovy Stit, Maly Kezmarsky Stit, Jastrabia Veza, Osterva, Kezmarsky Stit, Maly Osarpance, Volia Veza, Jastrabia Veza, and the Batizovsky Stit.

For more information on rock routes go to our Tatras Topos page, Climbing Europe site, Slovak rock walls or buy a guide book from Climbing Guide Vysokie Tatry.