Header Banner
Kazalnica Mieguszowiecka (2159m), nicknamed “Zerwa”, in English ‘the pulpit’, is one of the most serious and best-known walls in the Tatra Mountains. It belongs to Mieguszowieckie Szczyty peaks massif and it composes the most exposed and intimidating part of the N face of Mieguszowiecki Czarny peak (2410m). The complicated structure of Zerwa is made up of 6 major formations. They are: left depression, left pillar, main N-E wall, central depression, right buttres and north slopes. The main N-E wall is 480m tall and 250m wide. Left of this wall lies the very exposed 250m tall and 200m wide wall of Kociol Kazlnicy, also known as “Sanktuarium”, in English ‘the sanctuary’, named for its inaccessibility. Further left the Sanktuarium joins with the N-E buttress of MSCz, which then opens to the WCK basin where you find 100m long icefalls.

On the combined walls of Kazalnica/Zerwa and Sanktuarium there are the longest and most demanding routes in Poland. Among classic traditional routes there are five of them graded between VIII- and IX, six from VII- to VII+ and eight from V+ to VI+ and their variants. There are several aid routes between A0 to A3 difficulty. Most of these aid routes are in Sanktuarium and have a typical winter character. There are also easier routes located in the right part of Kazalnica and in the left part of Sanktuarium.

In summer we use the same straightforward path to reach all the routes on Zerwa. From the Morskie Oko hut take the path around the left side of the Morskie Oko Lake. Follow the trail up the 190 metre step to Czarny Staw tarn. From Czarny Staw, where the trail splits, take its right path and walk several meters above the tarn and then traverse to your desired route. For routes on the buttress of MSC and in Sanktuarium, which are situated further along, it may be better to take the red trail turning left and to continue along the other side of Czarny Staw tarn towards the Rysy peaks. Then, only after the tarn ends, turn right to your route. Many routes on Kazalnica have the same starting point. The first section of these routes is regarded as a part of the approach and often done climbing together.

In winter you can cross the frozen tarn. Whenever the snow is unstable the most avalanche prone are the slopes below the face of Sanktuarium and the area around the start of “Lapinski” route.

In summer your way down from the top of Kazalnica is easy and very obvious. You just need to follow the green trail right to the bottom. Since the interesting climbing ends 150-200 meters below the summit of Kazalnica not everyone is willing to continue to the top. In general there are two frequently used descents. The first easier way leads through the summit and is preferred for descending routes on the pillar and in its proximity. Although it is more of a detour, it is also used for the routes located between the pillar and “Lapinski” route. You start this descent by continuing climbing to a col just below Trzecia Turnia – the third gendarme. Once you have reached it turn right and walk around and up this gendarme. From here take the green trail right to the bottom of the mountain.

The second way is considered as your best option for the routes to the right of the pillar. Once you have finished your route you need to traverse right and a bit down to “Lapinski” route. Continue up the route several meters through a step graded III+. From here carry on to the top of Zerwa and then take the green trail down. It is also popular to do three traverses right to the green trail. That takes you right below where the trail is secured with fixed chains.
To descend from Sanktuarium you have to walk up its couloir and then take its left junction right to the summit of Kazalnica.

Descents in winter become more complicated. The problems occur in the middle part of the green trail on your descent from the summit of Kazalnica. The chains in the  north snowfields below the Ramie Kazalnica arm (2090m) are snowed up in the middle of winter. In such case it may be wiser to descend through Wyzni Bandzioch to the walls of MSCz and from there to walk down in a straight line. It is also possible to do one abseil off warthogs hammered in the frozen ground. Often climbers decide to traverse right to the place below the fixed chains.

The descent from Sanktuarium is often threatened by avalanches and the narrow character of the couloir is the major obstacle in climbing up on the sides of the couloir. When high avalanche risk occurs it is advised to abseil down the route of your ascent.

Recommended winter routes:
All the routes on Kocioł Kazalnicy, with the best classic – “Sprężyna” (VI, A1).
All the routes, except the bolted ones, on Kazalnica. The best of them are: “Długosz” (V+, A1), “Filar” (‘Pillar’) (V+, A1), “Łapiński-Paszucha” (V+, A0), “Diretissima” (VI, A1). Hard stuff: “Superparanoja”, “Wish You were here”, “Czok Kiełkowski”, “Bushido” (VIII, A3 – no winter ascent).
“The Pillar” of Kazalnica (IX+).  Its "Big Roof" is aid climbed or you can avoid it by a rightward traverse at grade VI. It is the best winter route in Morskie Oko, and don't be put off by the first 200 meters of scrambling among the grass. Higher up it becomes brilliant. You will need 12 quickdraws, a set of nuts and 4 to 6 cams.
“Symfonia Klasyczna” on Kazalnica (VII/VII+). It has a demanding first 3 pitches, there is no protection in-situ, and a set of pitons is strongly recommended. Then it has a few hard moves and the upper part where is follows “The Pillar” route.
“Warianty Małolata”, one of the longer of the easier routes (VI+), you only need quickdraws, a set of nuts and 2 to 3 cams.

A complete, double sided english language printout (32'x12') of this topo features:
-all the above information,
-all routes on the mountain with the indication of the best classics and modern hard core routes,
-general information about climbing and skiing in Tatra Mountains,
-a map of Tatras region,
-a map of the Morskie Oko Valley,
-lots of good tips.

To purchase this topo send us an email to This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it