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The peaks of Mieguszowiecki including Kazalnica Mieguszowiecka "Zerwa" form one of the best known and the most interesting to climbers’ massifs in Tatras. The Mieguszowiecki Szczyt also known as Wielki (Enormous) has got several walls on its own. For a long time it was its N wall and N-E Pillar which were responsible for its fame. Nowadays those two formations offer a serious adventure mostly in winter. Relatively small buttress of the Pillar, called "Sciana Czolowa" or "Czolowka", became the most popular summer climbing part of the Mieguszowiecki Massive. One of the biggest winter and summer attractions on Mieguszowiecki Massive however is presented here 400 meters tall East wall.

The most popular routes on E-wall are:
5 Droga Uchmanskiego-Surdela "Kiszkant" V+, winter classic
8 Droga Swierz V-, sinter classic
10 Droga Kurczaba V, winter classic

New and becoming popular:
7 Droga Smolskich V+, VI, winter classic
9 Droga Maczki VI-, winter classic
11 Droga Glazkow (po Glazkach) V+, VII
12 Droga Chrobaka V, A1 (15m), winter classic

Approach:
Get to Mieguszowicki Kociol (Bandzioch) following green trail from Morskie Oko Hut 1.30-2hrs. Turn right and get off green trail before it turns left.

Descent:
Descents of this mountain, especially in winter, are among the most complicated and serious ventures in Moko Valley. The easiest way down in summer leads through West Ridge in Northern direction, just above the Mieguszowiczka Turniczka (gendarme) where you can find an arrow on the wall. Following the arrow you have then descent several meters until you reach lower of the two couloirs located in the upper part of North Wall.  The couloir will lead you to down to Biale Siodelko (white col) above Bialy Zlebek (white couloir). Walk down this second couloir to Bandzioch and further down in the final couloir to the foot of the mountain.

Second way from the top starts with a short walk in S-W direction, and then you need to turn left and down towards "Droga Glazkow" (po Glazkach) and from there on follow the route towards East to Przelecz pod Chlopkiem where you will find a green trail.

Descents in winter are much more complicated, especially below Przelecz pod Chlopkiem and below Hinczowa Przelecz. When there is a high avalanche warning or weather closes it is best to descent on the Southern, Slovak side. In bad weather it is advised to down climb the ridge to Hinczowa Przelecz, with one possible abseil. Alternatively, take two direct abseils to the South to reach a couloir in South wall of Mieguszowiecki on "Droga po Glazach".  Go down this couloir crossing a depression of Mieguszowicka Przelecz Wyzna to the foot of South wall.


A complete, double sided english language printout (32'x12') of this topo features:

-all the above information,
-all routes on the mountain with the indication of the best classics and modern hard core routes,
-general information about climbing and skiing in Tatra Mountains,
-a map of Tatras region,
-a map of the Morskie Oko Valley,
-lots of good tips.

To purchase this topo send us an email to This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

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