Header Banner
quote
Print

Mnich (2020m) is one of the best-known peaks in the Tatras. It has played a particularly important role to Poles. Almost every period of it’s development initiated a new era of Polish climbing. The most famous is its E wall, located above Mnichowy Zleb couloir. The E wall is 260m tall, and offers huge exposure and excellent compact granite in its upper 110 meters.

The N and N-W walls of Mnich are the preferred ground for training.  Since they dry quickly they are your best bet for the first day of good weather. Further south and to the left of Mnich can be found the E walls of Mniszek (2045m) and Ministrant (2030m). All three peaks together constitute the Mnich massif, and are exceptionally interesting and varied in climbing terms.

The routes on the N-W side of Mnich were the first to ever lead Polish climbers to its summit. Some of them, graded between VI+ and VIII were bolted in the 90s’, which caused a lot of anger. Even more controversy and arguments were aired when, in the summer of 2003 and 2004, three new routes were bolted. They are however among the most technically demanding and sustained routes in the Polish Tatras. Look for them if you are in the top of the climbing league. They are called: “Misterium Nieprawosci” (IX/IX+ with many bolts, but still a full rack is needed), “Metalica” (IX-/IX eighty bolts, has seen only one repeat), and “Superata Mlodosci” (VIII+/-IX several ascents).

Overall in the whole massif of Mnich there are several routes graded VIII to X-, and the routes graded between VII and VIII- are certainly the most popular routes in their grade in the Polish Tatras. There are sections of classic trad routes in VII and VIII grades that require advanced gear placement skills. In that category you will find “British Traverses” on Mniszek, which have never been done traditional style in their entirety. Others are “Calkiem na lewo”, “2+1” on the W wall of Mnich and “Zezwolenie na wiercenie” on the N-W wall of Mnich.

Equally popular routes on the N-W wall are “Klasyczna” (IV+), “Orlowski” (V-), “Kant klasyczny” (VI-), and on the E wall “Stanislawskiego” (VI), as well as “Lapinskiego” (V+) on Mniszek.

The most popular easier routes are “Directtissima” (VI) on Mniszek, “Kant Gietrycha” (VI+), “Sprezyna” (VII-), “Miedzymiastowa” (VI+), “Rysa Hobrzanskiego” (VI+/VII-), “Zaciecie Kosinskiego” (VII), and bolted “Zemsta Waclawa” (VI+/VII-) on the N-W of Mnich. Popular solid VIIs, VII+s and VIII-s are “Kant hakowy” (VII), “Ferenski” (VII/VII+), “Wachowicz” (VII+/VIII-), “Lapinski” (VII) on Mnich. Finally, our favourites in the top grades are: “Sardus” (IX) and “Wariant R” (VIII+/IX-). The most difficult aid climbing routes can be found below the roofs of Ministrant.

The most beautiful climbing in the massif of Mnich can be found on the following routes: “2+1”, “Sprezyna”, “Sardus”, “Wariant R”, “Wachowicz”, “Ferenski”, “Kant hakowy”, “Rysa Marcisza” and “Zemsta Waclawa”.

Approach:
From the Morskie Oko hut to the N & N-W walls and to the upper part of the E wall of Mnich can be done in about 1,5 hours, first following the yellow trail. After the first 30 minutes you get to the Dolina za Mnichem valley’s step where the yellow trail splits. From here take the red trail and walk 50m towards Wrota Chalubinskiego. Then take a distinctive path turning left. This takes you to the first terraces with several small tarns. From the tarns take a sharp bend right to the next terrace. Traverse to the left and then below the N wall of Mnich scramble 3 meters down the ledges. From here to the E wall you go diagonally left and then traverse down 10m of grade IV in an exposed position. It is strongly advised to protect this traverse with ropes. Finally you end up on the ledges above Mnichowy Zleb couloir and the most solid and beloved E walls of Mnich. The whole approach takes about 1,5 hours from the hut.

The approach to Mniszek, Ministrant and to the lower parts of the E wall of Mnich is more direct and goes through Mnichowy Zleb couloir. You need to get to this couloir by turning left after the first 30 minutes walk up the yellow trail from the Morskie Oko hut. It takes 1,5 hours to get to the routes.

In winter the approaches are similar to those in summer.

Descent:
From the summit either climb down “Droga Zejsciowa – Przez Plyte” (II-III) or abseil down “Przez Przewieszke”. On the topo they are marked as routes 13 and 14 and are located on the N & N-W walls of Mnich.

If you are doing several routes in a day and some of them are on the E wall of Mnich then on your descents from Mnichowe Stawki tarns, located on the first terrace under the N-E walls of Mnich, you can take a shortcut directly down a narrow path to the bottom of the E wall of Mnich.


A complete, double sided english language printout (32'x12') of this topo features:

-all the above information,
-all routes on the mountain with the indication of the best classics and modern hard core routes,
-general information about climbing and skiing in Tatra Mountains,
-a map of Tatras region,
-a map of the Five Lakes Valley,
-lots of good tips.

To purchase this topo send us an email to This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

mnich2_web.jpg